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No Sombre Mood

RUNWAY FASHION TREND: No Sombre Mood in Paris Ending a month-long marathon of fashion shows which started in New York, fashion critics said the mood on the catwalk was upbeat and relaxed – in contrast with the gloomy media headlines they read in the papers while waiting for the show to begin. “I find this spring/summer season to be much lighter and uplifting than the others,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice-president in charge of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman. “Some of the clothes literally seem to float.” Hermes Spring 2012 Stella McCartney Spring 2012 Lanvin Spring 2012 Christian Dior Spring 2012   At Hermes, the trend expressed itself with wide, long white, ochre and orange tunics while at Stella McCartney, the theme was a chic pyjama party with loose-fitting pant suits and shorts, with flat sandals or nude shoes. At Valentino, specialist in extra-high stilettos, models this time strutted in flat sandals as they presented delicate candy pink Chantilly-lace dresses. Inspired by the aquatic world, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel produced a relatively easy-to-wear collection ornamented with pearls, seashells and printed waves in Paris’ cavernous Grand Palais, transformed into a giant seabed for the occasion. Chanel, Valentino but also Lanvin and Christian Dior made much use of feather-light, flowing materials such as organza, tulle and silk to make dresses look weightless. Valentino Spring 2012 Chanel Spring 2012   “Transparencies, with ultra-light and sheer fabrications, were prevalent, lending a romantic mood to the season,” said Colleen Sherin, Senior Fashion Director at Saks Fifth Avenue. Sea colours such as coral and turquoise dominated the palette at brands such as Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Dior and Chanel. But there were also surprising touches of autumn colours such as ochre, light purple and Celadon green at brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Haider Ackermann. Overall, fashion critics said Paris Fashion Week was so infused with positive energy, it was hard to believe a global crisis was brewing. Haider Ackermann Spring 2012 “As much as media is painting a picture of unrest, it is not influencing customers yet,” said Ken Downing, Fashion Director at Neiman Marcus. Reuters By Astrid Wendlandt

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